Collar construction



May 2, 1939. H. J. SEMAN COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Filed April 20, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR firman JSPman ATTORNg H. J. SEMAN May 2, 1939.

COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Fi'led'April 20, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 a 9 %w 5 w v 1 Q 4 m m k fwS r W a; 5 L W a Q X w 5% Patented May 2, 1939 2,i56,704

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE COLLAR CONSTRUCTION Herman J. Seman, Philadelphia, Pa.

Application April 20, 1938, Serial No. 203,106

4 Claims. (Cl. 2-131) The present invention relates to a certain 'new Figure 7 represents a cross-section through the and useful shirt collar construction, and it rethree plies of the collar, on a much-enlarged lates more particularly to a construction in colscale (approximately 42.6 times actual size), lars of what may generally be referred to as a taken generally on line 'l-1 of Figure 2; showing "fused type, that is, in which the several plies the three plies of fabric before they have been of fabric are more or less permanently adhered pressed together. to each other in a way which will not be affected The collar 8 of the present invention may be by wetting or laundering. attached to and carried by the collar-band 9 of One of the objects of the present invention is the shirt 'lll, so as to constitute a permanently atp to produce a collar which will retain its form tached collar in relation tothe'shirt, or it may be 10 better and which will launder better and which formed as a separable collar, by having a separate will be more durable and better resist the deterineck-band portion 9 associated with it independorating tendency of the laundering operations, ently of the shirt. and which will wear better, particularly at the Whether of one form or another, the collar 5 bend or fold line. proper (8) is formed of an intermediate fusing With the above and other objects 'in view, or binding ply ll, an outer surface ply l2, and a which will appear more fully from the following rear ply I3.

detailed description and-the accompanying draw- The intermediate fusing or binding ply ll may ings, the present invention consists of certain he of any suitable form, but includes some fusible 0 novel construction shown in the accompanying or binding thread or members or ingredients drawings andhereinbelow more fully described which are capable of binding together the front and defined in the appended claims. and rear plies l2 and I3 in a permanent manner.

For the purpose of illustrating the invention, In the particular illustrationshown (with parthere is shown in the accompanying drawings ticular reference to the enlarged views in Figone form thereof which is at present preferred, ures 5 and '7) the intermediate ply is a watersince it has been found in practice to give satispermeable ply, formed of relatively thick cellufactory and reliable results, although it is to be v lose acetate or similar fusible or adhesive or bindunderstood that the various instrumentalities of ing threads l4 extending warpwise, closely which the invention consists can be variously arflanked on each side by relatively thinner singleranged and organized and that the invention is ply or single-strand cotton threads l5, and siminot limited to the precise arrangement and orlarly'thin single-ply cotton weft threads IS. The ganization of the instrumentalities as herein cotton warp threads l5 flanking each of the celshown and described. lulose acetate threads .l4 are preferably inde- Referring to the drawings, in which like referpendent of and slightly separated from the pair 5 ence characters indicate like parts, of similar cottonwarp threads which fiank the t Figure 1 represents a front elevational view next cellulose acetate threads, thereby to leave of a shirt including a collar embodying the presa slight gap l1 between the pairs of generally ent invent on; all bein more or less a general adjacent cotton warp threads. In the illustrarepresentation; r tion in Figure 7, the thermoplastic binding Figure 2 represents-a plan view of the collar, threads I! are shown in their initial condition 40 with the neck-band, but with the rest of the shirt before the three plies have been pressed together broken away. Fragments of the collar are also and before the thermoplastic thread M has been shown broken away, to expose to view the inheated and pressed. When the three plies are ternal Construction Of the pressed together to the accompaniment of heat,

Figure 3 represents a section on line 33 of the thermoplastic threads 14 are squashed and Figure generally flattened out, so that the over-all thick- Figure 4 represents a plan view, on a much enness of the intermediate ply ll is less than that larged scale (approximately 42.6 times actual indicated in Figure 7 ;-the thickness being resize) of the outer ply of the collar; duced more or less approximately to the thick- Figure 5 represents a plan view, on a much ness determined by the .cotton threads or ingredi- 5 enlarged scale (approximately 42.6 times actual ents thereof.

size) of the intermediate ply of the collar; The outer ply [2' is formed of similar warp Figure 6 represents a plan view, on a much enand weft threads I8 and I9, respectively, each larged scale (approximately 42.6 times actual relatively thick compared to the spacing of the size) of the rear ply of the collar; and warp and weft threads, so that the ply will be 55 (I comparatively dense and with relatively no open spaces in any direction. The warp and weft threads l8 and i9, shown in the accompanying drawings, are preferably three-ply or threestrand mercerized cotton threads with approximately 13 to 16 twists per inch. The outer ply contains eighty threads per inch warpwise, and eighty threads per inch weftwise, and is relatively thick in contrast to ordinary shirting materials, and in contrast to the ordinary outer plies commonly used in attached fused collars. ply is approximately eleven to thirteen thousandths of an inch in thickness, in contrast to a thickness of about five to seven thousandths of an inch generally used for the outer ply of fused collars, and in contrast to a similar thickness of five to seven thousandths of an inch used in the corresponding shirting materials.

The rear ply I3 is a relatively less dense and thinner cotton ply formed of relatively thin, single-ply or single-strand warp threads 20 and relatively thin, single-ply or single-strand weft threads 2|, spaced sparsely in relation to their thickness, so as to produce a fabric relatively thinner and less dense and more permeable than the outer ply l2. The warp threads 20 may be relatively closely spaced, as for instance one hundred-twenty per inch, more or less, while the weft threads 2| may be spaced relatively farther apart from each other, .as for instance sixtyfour to seventy-two threads per inch, more or less;the weft threads 2| being relatively thin, in relation to the spacing of the weft threads to each other, so that the warp threads 20 will not be bent around the weft threads 2| in sharp curves, but only in more gradual or shallow curves, as indicated more particularly in Figure '7.

The cellulose warp threads M of the intermediate ply ll, being thicker than the cotton threads l5 and I 6 of the same ply, form projections 22 which serve as high contact points for the adjacent outer and rear plies l2 and I 3, respectively, thereby to eifect fusion or adhesion or binding at these points upon the application of heat, as in the pressing or ironing operation.

It will thus be noted that the outermost ply I2 of the collar is relatively more dense than either of the two other plies, and is thicker than the rear ply l3, and is also thicker than the main cotton portion of the intermediate ply l I. a

The composite collar structure (upon fusion or union of the three plies) is readily permeable to water, but with the permeability being greater from the rear than from the front or outer surface. Upon laundering and pressing (ironing), good, form-retaining quality is attained. Moreover, by reason of the relatively greater density and thickness of the outer ply (in contrast to the other plies, particularly the rear ply), the repeated folding or flexing of the composite structure (particularly in the dry and pressed state), will have less deteriorating eifect and will produce less wear than in other fused collars. Thus, the collar construction 'of the present invention will greatly outwear other forms of construction, and indeed, will greatly outwear or outlive the shirt to which it may be attached. Thus, it will not wear at the fold line around the folded or uppermost edge of the collar where it comes in contact with the neck.

While the outer ply [2 of the collar is thicker and more dense than therear ply l3 and thicker and more dense than the shirting material (broadcloth etc.), yet it may have generally the same appearance so as to blend with the shirt and to match the shirt.

The outer ply structure in hereby claimed as new and desired to be secured I by Letters Patent, is:

1. A fused shirt collar including a relatively thick and relatively dense outer woven textile ply of from ten to fourteen thousandths of an inch in thickness, formed of twisted three-strand mercerized cotton warp threads and weft threads more or less approximately eighty threads per inch both warp-wise and weft-wise;the thickness of said warp and weft threads being relatively great in relation to the space between threads, a relatively thinner and less dense and more openmesh rear woven textile ply formed of singlestrand warp and weft threads and being relatively limper than the aforesaid outer ply, and an intermediate woven cotton ply relatively less dense than the outer ply and relatively limper and carrying a thermo-plastic binding material uniting the aforementioned two other plies to form a composite collar structure in which the outer ply is substantially less limp and more form-retaining than the rear ply and less limp and more form retaining than the intermediate cotton ply, and in which composite collar structure the aforesaid outer ply dominates the two other cotton plies in any bending or flexing of the united three-ply structure in such a way that said two cotton plies will yield in favor of the outer ply when the collar is bent or flexed.

2. A fused shirt collar including a relatively thick and relatively dense outer woven textile ply formed of twisted three-strand mercerized cotton warp threads and weft threads;the thickness of said warp and weft threads being relatively great in relation to the space between threads, a relatively thinner and less dense and more open-mesh rear woven textile ply formed of single-strand warp and weft threads and being relatively limper than the aforesaid outer ply, and an intermediate woven cotton ply relatively less dense than the outer ply and relatively limper and carrying a thermo-plastic binding material uniting the aforementioned two other plies to form a composite collar structure in which the outer ply is substantially less limp and more form retaining than the rear ply and less limp and more form retaining than the intermediate cotton ply, and in which composite collar structure the aforesaid outer ply dominates the two other cotton plies in any bending or flexing of the united three such a way that said two cotton plies will yield in favor of the outer ply when the collar is bent or flexed.

3. A fused shirt collar including a relatively thick and relatively dense outer woven textile ply formed of twisted cotton warp threads and weft threads;the thickness of said warp and weft threads being relatively great in relation to the space between threads, a relatively thinner and less dense and more open-mesh rear woven textile ply formed of warp and weft threads and being relatively limper than the aforesaid outer ply, and an intermediate woven cotton ply relatively less dense than the outer ply and relatively limper and uniting the aforementioned two other plies to form a composite collar structure in which the outer ply is substantially less limp and more form retaining than the rear ply and less limp and more form-retaining than the intermediate cotton ply, and in which composite collarstructure the aforesaid outer ply dominates the two other cotton plies in any bending or flexing of the united three ply structure in such a way that said two cotton plies will yield in favor of the outer ply when the collar is bent 'or flexed.

4. A fused shirt collar including a relatively thick and relatively dense outer woven textile ply of from ten to fourteen thousandths of an inch in thickness, formed of twisted cotton warp threads and weft threads more or less approximately eighty threads per inch both warp-wise and weftwise;-the thickness of said warp and weft threads being relatively great in relation to the space between threads, a relatively thinner and less dense and more open-mesh rear woven textile ply formed of warp and weft threads and being relatively limper than the aforesaid outer ply, and an intermediate woven cotton ply relatively less dense than the outer ply and relatively limper and carrying a thermo-plastic binding material uniting the aforementioned two other plies to form a composite collar structure in which the outer ply is substantially less limp and more form-retaining than the rear ply and less limp and more retaining than the intermediate cotton ply, and in which composite collar structure the aforesaid outer ply dominates the two other cotton plies in any bending or flexing of the united three ply structure in such a way that said two cotton plies will yield in favor of the outer ply when the collar is bent or flexed.

HERMAN J. SEMAN. 

